The tailored jacket and its small details
How to recognize a handmade tailored jacket: details that speak for themselves
When it comes to bespoke tailoring, attention often focuses on fit or fabric choice. However, there are a number of more discreet details—sometimes invisible to the untrained eye—that powerfully reveal the quality and care with which a garment has been made.
Whether it is a jacket freshly completed in our workshop or a vintage piece discovered at a market, learning to recognize the signs of hand craftsmanship means developing a trained and discerning eye—one capable of distinguishing true artisanal tailoring from industrial production.
Below are some of the key details you can find in a fully handmade tailored jacket.
Padding Stitches
Padding stitches are among the simplest and most effective elements for identifying the level of craftsmanship in a jacket, especially when it has been made by hand.
By looking underneath the lapel, you can notice small hand-sewn stitches whose purpose is to shape the lapel and allow it to roll naturally and correctly over the chest. These stitches are clear signs of skilled sartorial work, carried out with precision and mastery.
Buttonholes
Buttonholes are another fundamental detail. In our tailoring house, all buttonholes are entirely handmade using silk thread.
On the lapel, in particular, we create a buttonhole called
“Lucida” in italian—a distinctive stylistic choice that defines our work. This type of buttonhole is also known as a
"Milanese" buttonhole and is traditionally used to hold a boutonnière or lapel flower.
Sleeves
The sleeves are also finished with real, functional buttonholes, hand-sewn and fully working. By stylistic choice, we apply three buttons on the sleeve, leaving the option to add a fourth buttonhole should the sleeve ever need to be lengthened in the future.
This detail reflects our attention not only to aesthetics, but also to practicality and the long-term life of the garment.
Linings and Internal Finishing
Inside the jacket, all linings are attached and finished by hand with the utmost care. Every internal detail is designed to last over time while ensuring maximum comfort.
Among the most significant elements are the buttoned closure of one internal pocket, and our sartorial labels. On these labels, we handwrite the client’s name, the delivery date, and a reference number that allows us to archive each garment and trace its history over time.
The Armhole
The armhole is also entirely hand-finished. The small stitches that secure the lining in this area are essential to ensuring an impeccable fit, allowing the jacket to follow the natural movement of the arm with ease and fluidity.
It is one of those details that may be invisible from the outside, yet fundamental to comfort and elegance.
The Hanger Loop
Finally, the hanger loop: a small hand-sewn loop positioned at the collar that allows the jacket to be hung properly. It is made using the same lining fabric as the body of the jacket, maintaining consistency in both materials and aesthetics.
A seemingly simple detail, yet one that completes the sartorial work with balance, functionality, and elegance.
Recognizing a handmade tailored jacket means knowing how to observe the details: padding stitches, buttonholes, internal finishing, and those small elements that contain hours of artisanal work. This is where the true difference between a bespoke jacket and an industrial garment reveals itself—in uniqueness, care, and the ability to stand the test of time.
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